Two Hours of Fettuccine, on Piazza Navona Itself

The address is Piazza Navona 73. Not near the square, on it. You make pasta inside a working restaurant while the square does what it does outside the window, which is a strange and quite good place to be rolling out dough. Two hours, hands-on, run by Eatalian Cooks at Ristorante Panzirone. What you learn is egg pasta: the dough by hand, resting it, rolling it thin, then cutting fettuccine off the folded sheet with a knife. It is a different craft from the dried semolina pasta of the south, and it belongs to central and northern Italy, which is why the fresh-pasta counters here sell fettuccine and tagliatelle rather than shapes you extrude. The technique transfers. Once you know how the dough should feel under your hands, you can make it in any kitchen with a rolling pin and a table. A practical warning about the booking terms. Arrive ten minutes early and ask the restaurant staff to take you through. Anyone who turns up late or not at all can only be rebooked for an additional fee, and no refunds are given.