Private Trastevere Food Walk: Innocenti, Caciara, Otaleg

Roman street food is not a recent invention and Trastevere still sells most of it from the same counters. This private walk lasts three and a half hours and goes through the back streets, stopping at shops that have been there long enough to have a third generation behind the till. The supplì comes first in most people's minds: a deep-fried rice ball cooked with tomato ragù, breadcrumbed, with a mozzarella heart inside. Not an arancino. Then biscuits, cheese and cured meats, artisanal gelato, and a plate of carbonara, cacio e pepe or amatriciana sitting down. Being private, the pace is yours, and so is the conversation with the people who make the food. That is the part that is hard to get otherwise: Stefania Innocenti is the third generation of her family in the biscuit shop, Signor Roberto gets his Pecorino Romano from his uncle's farm, and Marco Radicioni churns the gelato himself. They are not performing for a group of thirty, so they talk. The route starts on the Tiber Island and works up through the neighbourhood, which means the food stops are spaced by walking rather than stacked in one street.