The Moka, Not the Espresso: A Sweet Walk Through Rome

Espresso is what Italy is famous for abroad. At home, for nearly a century, coffee has meant the moka pot on the stove, and that gap between what Italians export and what they actually do in the morning is where this walk is most interesting. One stop is the Bialetti shop at Largo Chigi, for a demonstration of how the moka works and how Italians use it, with a welcome gift for the group. The rest is coffee and sugar. Tazza d'Oro, open since 1946, where the guide explains the roasting process while you drink a granita made with espresso. Sant'Eustachio, with priority service so you are not stuck behind the counter crowd. A gelateria for the work of a well known gelato chef, and how to tell a good gelato from a bad one, which is mostly a matter of colour and how it is stored. A tiramisu shop on Via del Governo Vecchio, and how the dessert is put together. The route runs past the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, and starts at Piazza della Minerva, where Bernini's elephant carries an Egyptian obelisk on its back. Running since 2013, in small groups. No alcohol at any stop, and it works for people who do not drink coffee and for children. It can be adapted for gluten free. Everyone gets the operator's restaurant guide and recipe book. Meeting point: Piazza della Minerva, at the elephant.