Private Rome Walk with the Drinking Fountains and Sant'Ignazio

Three hours, a guide working only for your party, and a route that uses the alleys between the famous squares rather than the main roads. It starts at Caffè Greco on Via dei Condotti and takes in the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, Piazza Navona and the church of Sant'Ignazio, along with the small squares and fountains that sit at the end of a passage and are invisible from thirty metres away. One detail worth planning around: the fontanelle. Rome has hundreds of small cast-iron street fountains running continuously with drinkable mountain water from the same aqueducts that supply the monumental ones. Bring a bottle and you never buy water in this city. Most visitors walk past them for a week without working out what they are for. There are stops for pastries and gelato along the way, and the route is designed to keep giving you something to photograph rather than saving it all for the end. A good first day: three hours, and afterwards you know how the centre connects.