Rome After Sunset, from Campo de' Fiori to the Trevi Fountain

Two hours through the centre after the light goes, which is when this part of Rome is at its best and least crowded. The walk starts under the statue of Giordano Bruno in Campo de' Fiori, where the market packs up and the square changes character completely between six and eight in the evening. From there the route runs through the narrow streets to the buildings most tours pass without naming: Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza, which was the first university of Rome, and Palazzo Madama, which is the Italian Senate. Then Piazza Navona, built on the stadium the emperor Domitian raised for athletics, with Bernini's fountains standing in it now and a fragment of the stadium visible at the far end. The Pantheon comes next, with the tombs of Raphael, Queen Margherita and King Victor Emmanuel II, and then the Trevi Fountain, familiar from La Dolce Vita and from a dozen films since. The coin goes over the shoulder. A good first evening in Rome: the geography sticks, and you know where to come back to.