Ghetto and Campo Marzio by Night: 1555, 1824, 1920

Three dates hold this walk together. 1555, when a papal bull confined more than seven thousand Jews to a few streets by the river. They were not allowed to leave until the end of the 19th century, and the quarter that grew in that space developed a cuisine of its own. The fried artichoke, flattened and crisped in oil, comes from there, and it is the first thing you eat. 1824, the year a bakery opened on Via dei Chiavari that is still run by the same family. The pizza is thin and cracks when you fold it, which is what distinguishes the Roman version, and the guide explains where the margherita got its name. 1920, when four Republican temples were found under Largo Argentina during demolition work. The site is also where Julius Caesar was killed, and it is where the walk ends, with a gelato. In between: cured meats and cheese with a glass of local wine, dinner of Roman main courses among the buried remains of the Theatre of Pompey, tiramisu, the Fountain of the Four Rivers in Piazza Navona, and an espresso by the church of Sant'Eustachio. Four hours. Come hungry.