Combo: The Bone Crypts and the Dark Side, Two Hours Each

Two separate two-hour walks, sold together at a reduced price, and you decide how to take them. Both on the same evening with an hour's break between, or on different nights. The operator's team contacts you after booking to confirm which. The first goes to the Capuchin Crypts, where the bones of more than 3,500 friars were arranged into the decoration of five chapels, and then through the centre: an episode from the Second World War on Via Rasella, a murder story behind the Trevi Fountain, and a building opposite the Pantheon whose trade is said to have fed the Sweeney Todd legend. The second runs after dark through the back streets. Giordano Bruno, burned in Campo de' Fiori for what he thought about the universe, and the reason his statue is scowling in the direction it faces. A count who dabbled in magic and is supposed to still be about. A woman who rose from poverty to run the city through a pope, whom Romans called the popess, and who reputedly walks Ponte Sisto. The confraternity that collected corpses. A prison street. One of the most prolific poisoners on record, and the argument that she was providing a service. And a man who was Rome's official executioner for more than sixty years. Dress code for the crypts: shoulders and knees covered, for everyone. Cover-ups available at the door for a euro. Arrive ten minutes early.