Three Rooftops After Dark, One of Them Beside the Pantheon

Rome has almost no tall buildings in the centre, so a terrace four floors up puts you level with the domes rather than above them. That is the whole appeal: you look across a roofscape of tiles, bell towers and the backs of buildings nobody photographs, with the monuments standing out of it. Four hours, private, over three rooftop bars and restaurants, timed to catch the last of the light and then the city lit up. It starts at Piazza Barberini, at Bernini's Triton Fountain, where a stone figure has been blowing water through a conch since the 1640s. The first terrace looks straight down on the Trevi Fountain, with cured meats, cheese and wine. Cocktails and finger food follow at another. The next is beside the Pantheon, close enough to see the dome from your table, and the main course is served there. The walk between them goes through Piazza Colonna and Piazza della Minerva after dark, when both empty out. The last stop overlooks Piazza Navona, for dessert with a wine chosen to go with it. You pick between a Sicilian cannolo with almond ricotta, raspberry ice cream and orange sauce, or a tiramisu made with mascarpone mousse, coffee sauce and cream ice cream. A local guide runs the evening and does the sightseeing between stops. Meet at the fountain in Piazza Barberini.