Patrizia and Her Sommelier Son: Six Wines on Via di Monserrato

The enoteca is run by Patrizia and her son Giampaolo, who is the sommelier. That is the whole staff, and it is why this tasting is different from one run by a company: the person pouring has a stake in whether you enjoy it. The room is small, the wine is stacked on every shelf, and the tasting is private, so the group is only your party. Six wines, in an order that goes somewhere. It opens with sparkling, either Prosecco or Franciacorta, which are not interchangeable: one is made in the tank and stays fresh and floral, the other takes its bubbles in the bottle like Champagne and comes out drier and more savoury. With taralli, the hard little Apulian rings that go with a glass better than any crisp. Then two Italian whites, with cheeses from Umbria or Tuscany. Then two reds, with salami and cured meats picked by hand. Giampaolo talks through where each wine comes from and what the Italian regions do differently, which is a lot of ground to cover in one sitting and the reason the order matters. Enoteca Bortone is on Via di Monserrato, in the old centre, a short walk from both Campo de' Fiori and Piazza Navona.