An 1870 Bakery and a Fountain Drawn in 1471: Trastevere on Foot

Two and a half hours, ten people at most, and a route that crosses the river halfway through. It starts on the centre side, at the fountain in Piazza San Simeone, and works down Via del Governo Vecchio, a street of low buildings and old shopfronts that has kept its shape. Then Campo de' Fiori, where the open-air market runs in the morning, and where the supplì is worth stopping for: fried rice with a heart of mozzarella, the Roman starter that predates most of what tourists eat here. Across Ponte Sisto, with St Peter's dome lined up downstream, and into Trastevere. Pizza comes from a bakery that has been running since 1870, cut with scissors and eaten standing up, the Roman kind with a thin crust that cracks rather than folds. In Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere the guide stops at the fountain, which is probably the oldest in the city. The exact date is not known. It appears on Pietro del Massaio's map of Rome from 1471, drawn there with two basins stacked one above the other, water falling from the upper into the lower. The church behind it is one of the oldest in Rome and keeps its medieval mosaics on the facade, lit in the evening. The walk ends in Piazza di San Giovanni della Malva, after gelato. This tour cannot be run for coeliacs.